Monday, September 29, 2008

More of Williamsburg VA

More of Williamsburg. Today we had a nice lunch together. We were the only ones in the restaurant which meant the server could chat with us. Sometimes that is a nice thing, sometimes that is not so nice. It was ok today. Nathan commented on the great copper plated menus and he told us the guy who ordered them got fired over it. They were very pricey and he ordered 500 of them. Very strange, since maybe 100 would have been enough for this place. Ah, the things we learn from talking to people.



And for Jack and Diane:

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Ambir and Daniel's Visit


This past weekend, Ambir came to visit us. She brought her boyfriend, Daniel, whom we were meeting for the first time. We were so excited to have time with her in person. I have missed my gorgeous girlie.





We were super excited to meet Daniel finally. We really liked getting to know him and we hope to spend more time with them together while we are here this summer.



We went over to the animal shelter across the street from us. They seemed to enjoy that.





We even got Austin to come with us.



Most important during this trip was the fact we got them out on the pickleball court to learn the game. Daniel was a natural, because he is an athlete. Ambir picked up really fast too.



We introduced them to our favorite Ice Cream place. They even ate breakfast at Paul's. We fit in as much as we could. Our time with them was too short, but they are hoping to come up and see us again soon.



Living the life in sunny Florida!








Saturday, September 27, 2008

Angels Landing :: The Encore

No, I didn't go to the top of Angels Landing a second time ;-)

The day after I made it to the top of Angels Landing I was at the Visitors Center and saw a poster on sale that showed Walter's Wiggles and Angels Landing, together. A notation stated that it had been taken from the West Rim Trail. Hmm, I wondered if I could find that spot and take my own photo. So a couple of days later, I made that trek for the third time to Scout's Lookout! The trail didn't get any easier either. But, Oh!, the views were well worth the effort.

Angels Landing from the beginning of the West Rim Trail. Scout's Lookout is in the foreground (that flat, sandy area). The trail ascends that small peak on its west side then climbs up the ridge of the second peak.

A full view of the east side of Angels Landing showing the 1200 foot sheer drop to the Virgin River flowing through the valley below.

I followed the West Rim Trail for about an hour when it took a decided turn towards the North. I looked behind me and saw an unmarked trail through the sand leading to a section of slick rock. Venturing off the trail I followed the slick rock to it's end, about half an hour or so. (Photo was taken on my way back, hence the change in lighting.)

There below me was the scene I was seeking. Walter's Wiggles and Angels Landing. I spent several hours just sitting there at the edge, looking down. It was a wonderful spot to have lunch!

By mid-afternoon, the sun had almost disappeared, clouds had moved in and the wind had picked up considerably. Reluctantly, I left my perch on the side of the canyon.

On my way back down, I caught a glimpse of the duo from another spot just a little ways off the trail. I had to carefully move down the side of a little “hill” of rock. This angle shows some of Refrigerator Canyon, which you have to go through to get to Walter's Wiggles.

Walter's Wiggles from the first vantage point.

And from the second viewpoint.

Other posts in this series:
  • Angels Landing :: The Prelude
  • Angels Landing :: The Overture
  • Angels Landing :: Interlude
  • Angels Landing :: The Finale

Friday, September 26, 2008

Gunks Routes: The Last Will Be First (5.6)



(Photo: A view of climbers on the High Exposure buttress from high on the first pitch of The Last Will Be First (5.6).)



So you had your heart set on climbing High Exposure (5.6+)... but you arrived at the base of the climb to find it stacked three-deep with parties waiting to get started?



Well, don't waste your whole day waiting below the cliff.



Go hit The Last Will Be First (5.6) instead. It features high-quality moves all the way from the bottom of the cliff to the very top. It is in my opinion harder than High E and more sustained in its difficulty and its quality. I climbed it for the second time in early December with Liz and I was struck by how great it is, from start to finish. I think it is a contender for three stars, though I understand why Dick Williams gives it only two. It has no single standout moment, like the swing out onto the face on pitch two of High E, or the move over the big roof on Shockley's.



But it has something different: consistent fun. I think only Madame G's rivals The Last Will Be First when it comes to great continuous 5.6 climbing.



The first pitch is outstanding. After the initial easy moves up a slab to an obvious crack, you'll find never-ending steep climbing on good rock with good pro. Nice move follows nice move and then you hit the crux, where you'll bust it over a rooflet and up to the top of a shallow left-facing corner. Then you escape right from the corner and past a dead tree to the final good moves up to the GT Ledge. 160 feet of goodness. I can't think of another pitch of 5.6 in the Gunks that is so long and sustained at the grade.





(Photo: Liz almost finished with pitch one.)



When you arrive on the GT Ledge, you'll see a set of rap bolts off a ways to climber's left. I'd recommend against belaying from these bolts, as they do not put you in the best position from which to start pitch two. Instead you should build a gear belay in the cliff behind the ledge, just a step or two left from where you top out after pitch one.



Dick describes pitch two as beginning at the first left-facing corner, about 20 feet to the left of where you emerge from pitch one. I think it is actually less than 20 feet, and there are two corners right next to each other. You want the closer, shallower one. I was confused by Dick's instructions the first time I did The Last Will Be First and ended up going a little too far to the left, coming closer to the second pitch of Unholy Wick by mistake. What I actually did was an unnamed variation between the two climbs. Perhaps this was a first ascent? I can call it The Last Will Be Unholy (5.6). I thought my new variation was fun and well-protected.



I realized I was off-route afterwards, when I looked at the topo photo in the back of the guidebook. In this instance the photo is more helpful than the description. I also have a photo of my own that should help you make sure you don't suffer from the same confusion I had the first time around.





(Photo: Going the wrong way on pitch two of The Last Will Be First (5.6). The actual route is the yellow line on the far right. Click on the photo to enlarge and see the captions for the lines approximating the correct positions of the routes in this part of the cliff.)



In early December when I did the route for the second time I did the correct pitch two. Don't go as far left as I am in the above photo. Instead go up at the first, shallower left-facing corner, heading straight up about ten or fifteen feet thenheading diagonally upleft to the break in the little overhang.





(Photo: Looking down the correct pitch two of The Last Will Be First, from just above the crux overhang.)



The second pitch is not as sustained as pitch one. Itfeatures face climbing up and left to a small crux overhang that is cleared at the notch. The pro is good but it's a little spaced as you head left from the corner to the overhang. Great pro is available at the crux.



Once above the overhang the climb joins Ken's Blind Hole (5.6) to the finish. Straight up a shallow dihedral to a fun, easy traverse beneath overhangs to the right along a big horizontal. This leads to an exit at the top at a set of belay/rappel bolts.





(Photo: Liz at the finishing traverse on pitch two.)



While it isn't as sustained as the first pitch, pitch two offers good variety: face climbing, then a small overhang, then an entertaining traverse. Definitely well worth doing, and a fitting finish to a really nice climb.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Cherry Tree


The cherry tree si on the left. The deer come here to eat grass.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Awesome Lightning!



This evening an incredible series of thunderstorms rolled across Grand Portage Bay between 9:00 p.m. and 1:00 a.m. It was some of the most intense lightning I've ever seen in this area. I photographed the lightning for almost 3 hours from my boat shed on the Lake Superior shoreline. The image above was a 9 second exposure, with an aperture of f8 and the ISO set at 200. I got really lucky on the image below, as the lightning flashed almost immediately after I hit the button on the remote shutter release, and it was a very bright flash so I hit the button again right after the flash. It ended up being only a one second exposure!

Southwest Rock Art






























































Along the first leg of our journey back to Minnesota we made a couple of short side trips from I-70 to some rock art sites. The first of these was the "Head of Sinbad" rock art site. This is some of the best preserved rock art in the southwest. According to local literature these pictographs are at least 3,000 years old.



































































The second site we checked out was Sego Canyon. Unlike the Head of Sinbad panel, some of the Sego Canyon pictographs have experienced a lot of vandalism. There was one panel, however, that was high enough on the canyon wall that it was relatively untouched by vandals. According to the BLM, Sego Canyon contains 3 culturally distinct styles of rock art: Fremont, Ute and Barrier-style. After these quick stops we got back on the Interstate and continued our journey home.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Allensworth State Historical Park

After leaving Death Valley on March 27th I had decided to continue west to the coast of California, still seeking warmer weather. Along the way, I saw a sign for the Colonel Allensworth State Historical Park, which is located off of Interstate 5 northwest of Bakersfield, California. I went there not knowing what it was, only hoping that it had a campground.

The entrance welcomed me and I knew that I was in a very special place. Thankfully, it also had a campground!

According to a brochure that I picked up, the town of Allensworth was established in August 1908 by Colonel Allen Allensworth and four other settlers. It was the first settlement in California founded, financed and governed by African Americans. Their dream was to develop a thriving community based on the belief in programs that allowed blacks to help themselves create better lives. By 1910 Allensworth’s success was the focus of many national newspaper articles praising the town and its inhabitants.

Born into slavery and educated illegally, Allensworth ran off and joined the Army during the Civil War. He became one of the Army's first Black chaplains and at his retirement in 1906, he was the highest ranking African American commissioned officer in the United States military.

The townsite was purchased in 1974 by the California State Parks. Some of the homes and buildings have been restored while others are reconstructions.

The Stockett House and outbuildings.

The First Baptist Church.

Each building has a sign which provides a brief history.

The prefabricated house of Colonel Allensworth, delivered by railroad and assembled in 1911.

Additional photographs can be found on this page of the Allensworth Historical Park website. A biography of Colonel Allensworth can be found on Wikipedia.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Embracing the Local Scene


My manager told a fellow manager last week that she and I were "embracing the local culture". She's right. We are both definitely working hard at embracing it vs rejecting it. I had just purchased a pair of cowboy boots within hours of her sharing that. And if that is not embracing the local scene, I don't know what is.



She is doing her own thing to find a way to do that and I'm doing my own thing to do the same. There are times when it can seem a bit slow to me, and I find myself literally amusing myself by doing things like tracking the progress of how quickly an animal decays in the hot summer heat. Then I take pictures of that progress to share with Nathan who does not get to outside and play during the day like I do. Warning: Gross picture below.




Pretty cool, huh? For the record, that was taken on Day Nine. Tropical storm Debby dumped all kinds of water in the area making a mess of things for many people and animals.


The river flooded due to Debby's gift and so we dealt with more flooding in the park. So much so, we "moved" from one site to another site to avoid being in the flood water.



Let's see, beyond all that fun I have had tree frogs jump on the top of my head twice in the past month. Once it took a lot of arm flailing and a funny dance to get it to leave the top of my head. That was pretty fun. It has been so boring for the most part here though that it has allowed me to be ridiculously lazy. I've enjoyed it. We are leaving to go on a cruise tomorrow and while I'm excited, I fear that after my recent daily pace, I will be exhausted two days in. I will have much more to share here when I get back though. Something more blog worthy than tree frogs that is.



Living the life in lazy Florida.




Friday, September 12, 2008

Saturday 12/11 conditions check

Here's a few photos from our drive to check conditions. 38° and sunny. Tommorrow calls for rain. Then the temps are to drop into the teens and single digits again. Season is underway.






Overview of local conditions





Early season taunting of the SICK-le


Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Phend-Fisher Family Reunion Ledger - 1921

The 12th Annual reunion of the Phend - Fisher families was held at the home of John Ernest at Elkhart. The morning was spent in a social way and at noon a basket dinner was served, after which a short business session was held and the following officers elected for the ensuing year.

Henry Phend. Pres.
Jacob Phend. Vice Pres.
Christ Phend. Treas.
Fred Ernest. Sec.

It was decided by vote that the next annual reunion would be held at the home of Henry Phend. Columbia City, Ind on the 1st Sunday in September.

Fred Ernest,Sec.


The Phend-Fisher families gathered for a reunion in Elkhart County, Indiana almost annually from 1909 until 1943. Usually held at Nappanee, the events of the day were recorded in an old ledger book. Spelling has been retained as it was in the original though some punctuation and paragraph breaks have been added. To view all articles in this series click on the "Phend-Fisher Reunion Ledger" label at the bottom of this post.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

The Ambassador Theater and How It Rocked DC



Around 1927, my mother thinks she remembers walking with her Dad from Mozart Place to the Ambassador Theater on 18Th and Columbia Road to see something new-"a talkie" featuring Al Jolson in The Jazz Singer. Now flash forward forty years, and what Mom doesn't remember is that in 1967, the shuttered theater became the home to something new again-possibly the most amazing place ever to see a rock show in the history of this small town. I, unfortunately, was only about eight at the time, but over the weekend, yet another forty years forward, I went to a reunion of those who made it happen. Jeff Krulik our local film maker (and hero) helped bring these guys together from all over the country for this event.

In 1967 Tony Finestra, Court Rodgers and Joel Mednick were three young guys selling fire extinguishers of all things when they heard about the Summer of Love out in San Francisco. Out they went, and back they came to D.C. with ideas to make it happen here- the musical side of things anyway. They rented the Ambassador and booked The Grateful Dead. The Dead's equipment arrived, but unfortunately the city pulled their permit at the last minute and fought the project every step of the way. But our boys fought back and finally opened on July 28, 1967 with local band Natty Bumpo and headliner The Peanut Butter Conspiracy.

The Ambassador was an enormous space. All 1500 seats had been removed. The Psychedelic Power and Light Company took over the balcony and used multiple projectors and black lights to fill the room and cover the walls with colors and images that was a stand alone show of its own. Tickets were $1.50 on week nights, $2.50 on weekends. The mezzanine level boasted a head shop selling lava lamps, posters and well, you know, hippie stuff. What a scene it must have been. Not only was it a concert hall, but they tried to make a community center as well. Neighborhood kids were invited for special matinees- one involved a jazz band and a light show. It was also used as a staging area for the march on the Pentagon. Norman Mailer was there.

Jimi Hendrix needed work that summer. He'd been touring with The Monkees, but his style didn't quite fit that double bill. He ended up booked at The Ambassador for 5 nights that August-and Pete Townsend came to see him. (I'm not making this stuff up- ask Nils Lofgren.) This all happened here.

Canned Heat, Moby Grape, John Lee Hooker, Vanilla Fudge, The Fugs, The Paul Butterfield Blues Band and more all appeared at The Ambassador. Our own Joe Dolan of The Beatnik Flies mopped the floors there. His cousin, Patty made this hoe-down poster.


The sad thing is it couldn't last. It was partly a matter of bad publicity and partly the atmosphere of the times. (Even I remember how threatened people were by the hippie thing.) At the reunion, stories were told about police who gave parking tickets to legally parked theater goers. They also waited outside to arrest kids who had violated the D.C. curfew and scared them back to the suburbs. Plus it was a huge project to take on. The experiment ended about six months later. Sadder still the theater was torn down not too long after, and a vapid non descript plaza took it's place. Just last month a Jimi Hendrix tribute show came through town and played at Constitution Hall. Perhaps a better place to have it would have been there on that soul less plaza. It needs some life again.

The next time you are in Adam's Morgan, you might want to walk by there-and remember Jimi plus all the others that once played and worked there in that now gone place.
Remember the ghosts that once were dreams.



P.S. Speaking of ghosts: The Ambassador once stood on the site of The Knickerbocker Theater, but in 1922 the roof collapsed under the weight of snow. Ninety eight people were killed.


More From Nils Lofgren:
"The room was humming, not only with the expectation of seeing the Jimi Hendrix Experience, but that Pete Townshend was in the audience, and it was just an extraordinary pivotal night for me. Hendrix came out and said he was going to dedicate the first song to Pete Townshend and he was going to do a rendition of 'Sgt. Pepper.' Now being naive, and being a huge Beatles lover, a lot of us thought 'well, you're only a three piece band, how can you play 'Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band,' there's all these other guitars and strings.' We just didn't have a clue of what Hendrix was really about. He counted off the song and I remember he kind of disappeared, he just did one of those things where he fell to the floor, sitting on the floor rocking with the guitar between his legs kind of doing a 'Purple Haze/ Sgt. Peppers' riff, then he sort of bounces back up and does an insane version of 'Sgt. Peppers Lonely Hearts Club Band.' And when he dropped to the floor everyone just jumped up to try to see him, and from that moment on everyone was standing and mesmerized by obviously the greatest rock and roll guitar player that ever lived... There were just a lot of inspired moments like that at the Ambassador; it was this dark, beautiful, haunted, inspired room that you could go to and get lost in the light show and friends and the camradarie and the excitement of being in the audience discovering all this great new music; it was this real pivotal place in Washington, DC for all of the music scene, young and old."