Sunday, March 29, 2009

National Character

Mercian, Lillies

While many countries are rich in bicycle heritage, some have particularly strong associations with distinct styles of bikes: the Netherlands with the omafiets and the bakfiets, France with the mixte, porteur and randonneur, England with the roadster and the elaborately lugged "lightweight," Italy with the Frascona curve and the racing bike, the US with the cruiser and the mountain bike. Far from arbitrary, these connections can be revealing about the history and the cultural values of the country where each design developed, and this aspect is always interesting for me.




Jacqueline, Forest
Some connections are obvious, while others more subtle. Why for instance, did some countries (England, Holland) favour the loop frame design for step-through bicycles, while the swan frame is the dominant design in others (Sweden, Austria)? Did it have to do with women's fashions at the time these bicycles were developed?What accounts for the development of low trail vs mid/high-trail geometry and the tradition to carry luggage on the front vs on the rear? There is nothing I can think of that is country-specific that would explain this. And what about the early preference of derailleurs to internally geared hubs in France, even on city bicycles? Things like this are constantly going through my mind when I look at different bicycles and think about their history.





Royal H. Stainless Rainbow Bike
When it comes to building bicycles today, the national characteristics of a particular design continue to play a role, while also meshing with other traditions. European manufacturers have used American mountain bikes for inspiration. American builders and manufacturers have used Dutch bikes and French porteurs for inspiration. The end product inevitably reflects an interesting mix of historical traditions and cultural values.





Randonneur, Charles River

As I was working on, then riding, and then writing about the Randonneur over the past 8 months, I keep thinking how interesting it was that this old French design is now thriving (relatively speaking of course) in the US, with fairly minor modifications from the original. I suppose it makes sense: There is lots of land here, lots of places to travel, and Americans value speed - hence the growing popularity of randonneuring. Add to that the custom bicycle boom, and suddenly American framebuilders - for whom only three years ago "clearance for wide tires" meant 28mm - are building 650Bx40mm bikes with elaborate custom racks and cantilever brake bosses - an entirely normal feature now thanks to the popularity of cyclocross.Since American culture is a mish-mash of other traditions, it seems only natural that US builders are inspired by French, or Italian, or Dutch bikes. But what about a country with a very distinct tradition of its own?Can you see a low trailrandonneuring bicycle made by an English builder, or is that too strange? I've been discussing a possible project with Mercian Cycles, and if it works it could be interesting in that respect. The national character of bicycles is increasingly fluid and playful, and some traditions are kept alive through other countries' takes on them.

Friday, March 27, 2009

Dinner at our hotel camp near Wadi Rum

As we drove back to our hotel camp at Bait Ali Camp, just a few kilometers away from the Rum village, we were looking forward to an evening of chilling out.



Caught this postcard foto of 2 camels from the moving car.





Took a quick video as we leave the protected area of Wadi Rum back to our hotel camp.



We were not really sure what to expect for dinner that night but we were told there will be a buffet at the restaurant for all guests. I’m looking forward to some real Jordanian fares, I hope.



I heard that if you are staying at the Bedouin camps you get to see how they cook their meat traditionally. Under the ground! Wow, that would have been a very cool experience to witness and taste the actual food but I doubt if the hotel camp would be similarly showcasing this traditional aspect of Jordanian culinary.



When we arrived at the hotel camp, the first thing we did was to order a glass of drink. Red wine for me obviously. I need my spirits to help me relax and feel at home.



As for the dinner buffet, it was nothing that spectacular but it was OK.



I loved the ‘Arayes’ though. This is a typical Middle Eastern meat dish mainly found in Palestine, Jordan, Lebanon and Syria—grilled pita bread stuffed with minced meat mixed in spices and herbs. It was really, really good. If the whole meal were to be based on the Arayes only then it would have been 5 stars.



Blondine liked the dessert. I think it was called ‘Basbousa’, a crumble cake sprinkled with coconut strips on top.



The only thing we didn’t like during dinner was the music. They were playing some American pop music that does not really fit to the ambiance of the place. I made sure I communicated my displeasure when I submitted my hotel booking review.



Green salad, different types of Arabic dips and sauces, pickled vegetables and pita bread.



Couscous, lamb and chicken barbecue and the arayes.



Arayes, grilled pita bread stuffed with minced meat in spices and herbs. 5 stars!



For dessert, Basbousa.



There were quite a number of guests that evening at the hotel camp.


Wednesday, March 25, 2009

H Street Revisited

Now that H Street is coming back into its own, I wanted to pick my father’s brain about what it was like back in his day, in the 1920s. I decided we ought to take a tour, and see what was left, so we climbed into my pollen laden car and went back in time.

Our first hurdle was driving down H Street from Northwest to Northeast Everywhere we went the streets are being ripped up or there is new construction. Plus Dad couldn’t see through all the green funk on the windshield so that was a handicap, but we finally found the block where my grandfather, Peter Cokinos, had his candy shop at 1103 H Street. There’s a convenience store and an empty space there now, but back then he used to make candy and ice-cream in the basement. He made a very good living at it, too, and retired in about 1926.

I asked Dad if there were any other Greeks around back then, and it sounds like you couldn’t swing a cat without hitting a half dozen families - including branches of our own clan. Jim Cokinos, a first cousin, to Papou, had a deli at 10th and K, and the Kendros family lived nearby. There was the Kavakos Grill at 8th and H which became a nightclub during World War II, plus The Rendezvous which the Kalevas family ran. The Chaconas Bar and Grill was at 10th and H, and the Bacchus Grill was at H and 15th ( owned by the Bachhus family not the god)
He also remembers the Paramount Grill was run by two Greek brothers. It was "a blue collar sort of breakfast place". (Imagine that.)

Besides all the Greeks ,there was also Whall's Department Store which was 2 stories high and carried everything. There were three movie theaters- the Apollo, the Empire and the Princess - all of them gone now. (The Atlas which is now a performing arts center
didn’t open until the late thirties.) There were lots of beauty shops and barbershops- altogether a thriving business community.

Our next stop was 919 11th Street, the house Dad and his older sister, Catherine were born in. Peter Cokinos bought this house brand new probably in 1914. The block is a little worn down now, the fluted columns on the houses have been replaced, but it's still standing. Our family moved from here to Macomb Street around 1927.



We nabbed a mail person and continued down memory lane.
A few blocks away, at the corner of Montello and Neal, we found
Samuel Wheatley Elementary. Dad didn't recognize it at first as it had gained two large additions since he went there, but the whole school is empty now. This is where Dad and Aunt Catherine walked to school,
and where they learned to speak English for the first time.

Next it was over to the DC Farmer's Market. ( not to be confused with Eastern Market) A lot of the stalls are boarded up now. Of course, Dad remembers when it was all going full force, though it took us a while to find Litteri's Italian market. The paint has faded, but little else has. changed, and Mom thought she even recognized one of the countermen. After waiting a couple of years for a couple of sandwiches which were actually worth the wait, we picnicked with the carpenter bees at my son Kit’s school, Hardy which is being housed in a building that was the Hamilton School. The school is located on Brentwood Parkway just off Florida Avenue, within walking distance of his grandfather's childhood.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Color on Figueroa


Color on Figueroa, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

Figueroa Mountain has got to be one of the most colorful mountains I've seen. The wildflower displays near the summit are incredible. I recommend you visit if you're ever in the area!

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Review of "Lucy 3-Speed": Raleigh Lady's Sports

Lucy 3-Speed is a prototypical vintage Raleigh Lady's Sports, and I initially questioned the need to review her. But in the end I decided to go ahead and write the review, making it a sort of general commentary on buying a vintage 3-speed.

The benefits of Raleigh 3-speeds are that they are sturdy, comfortable, durable, easy to ride, have good front and rear loading capacity, and can be fairly easy and inexpensive to obtain. Some people, myself included, are also drawn to their aesthetics and history. The late Sheldon Brown wrote a great deal in praise of the English 3-Speed, and I invite you to read about it here and here.

From my own experience I especially stress the "easy to ride" aspect. Lucy 3-Speed is very much a "hop on and go" kind of bicycle. It is comfortable, but lighter than the Pashley. It is sporty, but more stable than the Motobecane. I don't think about it too much, I just get on it and go - and it always feels great.

A blurry illustration of the "lighter than the Pashley" factor.

My Lady's Sports is a 1970 model. It was "re-claimed" by me from the depths of my parents' garage, and you can read all about that here, as well as see lots of photos in its "before" state. In the classic "Raleigh green" colour and 21" frame size, this bicycle had all the standard features of a Lady's Sports, including a lugged straight step-through frame, 3-speed Sturmey Archer AW hub, North Road handlebars, matching fenders and chainguard. Though it sat abandoned for decades, there was nothing really wrong with the bicycle, other than a stretched out chain, flat tires, and some rust around the handlebars. Still, I made some upgrades to it that I consider crucial when one is buying a vintage 3-speed:

New Tires: As a rule, you should always get new tires after purchasing a vintage bike with original tires. It does not matter if the previous owner (or the bike shop you bought it from) assured you that the original tires are fine. Replace them anyway. The reason for this, is that vintage tires have a tendency to explode after their second decade of life, even if they appear "fine". You don't want this to happen while you are cycling in traffic. It is easy to find new tires for an English 3-Speed, because they come in standard 26" and 28" sizes. When you are buying new tires, spend a few extra dollars and get ones with kevlar protection to save yourself the trouble of getting flats. The nice cream tires on Lucy 3-Speed are Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, and I have written a detailed review of them here.

New Brake Pads: Vintage 3-Speeds have one tragic flaw: steel rims on the wheels. This means that in wet weather, the caliper brakes do not have great stopping power. Getting new, super-grippy brake pads will help with this, somewhat. The salmon Kool-Stop pads are generally considered to be the nicest and grippiest.

Lowered Gearing: Some find the standard gearing on Raleigh 3-speeds too high, making it difficult to go up hills. This is easily remedied. Simply ask you local shop to "lower the gearing" by replacing the rear cog with a larger one. For the hills in the Boston area, I recommend a 22-tooth cog. Lucy 3-Speed is now a great climber.

I also had the chain replaced, brakes and hub adjusted, and a general tune up. All this was done by the excellent Harris Cyclery in West Newton, Mass.

Other functional/aesthetic upgrades included replacing the old saddle with a sprung Brooks B67S in "honey", replacing the original handlebar grips with shellacked cork grips, installing a Low Rider Bullet Headlight by SunLite, adding a chrome pump from Old Roads, and adding a Pletscher rear rack. The bag on the rear rack is the Sackville Trunksack.

As you can probably tell if you have been reading this website, I am detail-oriented and tend to get carried away with aesthetics! Still, none of the updates I've made to this bicycle were expensive, except for the new saddle, which I could have done without. I hope this review shows that it is possible to make an elegant and comfortable bicycle out of a vintage 3-Speed. You might be surprised how many old, neglected 3-speeds are lying around in people's garages and basements, weeping and waiting to become somebody's beloved commuter!

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Jordan Diaries: Arriving in Amman and the embassy suburb

Now back in the Netherlands, and with all my fotos uploaded to my laptop, I can now begin my Jordan travel diaries. You might have noticed [grin] that I love chronicling my travels and this is mainly because the act of writing what I have experienced is akin to re-experiencing the experience. Like déjà vu. Besides, it somehow seals the whole experience for years to come, for me to come back to and live through them again. This is hoping that Google, the owner of Blogger and Youtube, and Multiply (this did and I have to re-upload the pictures to my Google storage) as well will not go into administration and I can turn back the clock and look at my blog entries and fotos with a smile and a hint of familiarity—oh yeah, I have done that, I was there.



Arrival at Queen Alia Airport + Pre-entry Visa



So I will start with our arrival in Amman. We landed just before 18:00 in Queen Alia International Airport. Dutch nationals are not required to have a pre-entry visa but Jordanian immigration authorities requires a visa for most foreign nationals entering which can be bought without hassles at the port of entry. We went straight to the visa section to buy our visas which is 10 JOD (1 JOD is 0.95 EUR). There is a money exchange kiosk and I believe an ATM just before the visa booth, so that is handy if you do not have Jordanian Dinars because they do not accept any other currency nor credit card payments.









Stunning tail, the crown logo makes everything for that grandeur royal look.









Plane views just before landing.



I am quite loyal to KLM but there are instances when I have to fly a different airline out of convenience. KLM does not have a direct flight from Amsterdam to Amman. Royal Jordanian airline is the only airline that flies direct. Their planes look very pretty from the outside although I can tell they are a bit old already. Food was nothing to rave about. I must say that service was SUPERB. Lovely RJ cabin personnel.







Very colourful Jordanian Dinars.



Taxi drive to Amman



18:15 and we are in the taxi to the direction of Amman. The drive to the capital is going to be about half an hour. Cabbie driving skills was OK, nothing near a rollercoaster ride.







The taxi drive from Queen Alia International Airport to Amman Centre -- about half an hour, costs 19 JOD.







Passing through Abdoun Bridge.



Our hotel in the embassy suburb of Amman



We arrived at our hotel—Hisham Hotel, a local Arabic owned hotel located at the back of the French Embassy in the 3rd circle. We arrived just before sunset so we had a good look at the surroundings.









Military security personnel in the posh neighbourhood of our hotel.



The area is somewhat an upscale hub of Amman where a lot of embassies and high-profile people are living. Security in military fatigue authoritarian uniforms with high powered rifles guarding entrances of many buildings and properties proliferate the neighbourhood. They are in every corner. We even saw a military jeep with a high-powered machine gun launched on top of the vehicle ready for action. For a moment there Blondine and I felt we are in the smack of war zone Middle East! lol



However, I think our location is the safest part of Amman, what with all these severe security patrolling and guarding the area.



Here is our hotel room:









Our hotel room was quite big, with wide floor to ceiling mirrors (we love this of course), with free internet, and it even has a Louis Vuitton trash can in the toilet, haha. Beside Hisham Hotel is the oldest bar, they say, in Amman. We checked it out quickly (forgot to take a foto) before retiring to bed early.







The view from our balcony: Amman.



A little stroll along Al Rainbow Street



Anyway, after checking in to our hotel, we asked the hotel manager if he has recommendations for a great restaurant. We want the best traditional Jordanian restaurant in town for dinner that night. He called up his first choice (forgot the name of the restaurant) but it was fully booked. Argh, happens all the time with the best restaurant huh. He gave us another alternative but we decided to just do our own thing and went to Al Rainbow Street in the 1st circle instead to see what night life in Jordan, a Muslim country, is like.



The taxi (rate is 1.5 JOD to 2 JOD max within Amman, do not pay more!) brought us to Al Rainbow Street in 5 minutes and we walked the whole stretch filled with commercial shops, Arabic fast foods and café restaurants offering non-alcoholic drinks and the famous hubbly bubbly—Shisha or Hookah or in plain English, waterpipe. Some restaurants do offer beer so for those who cannot disentangle night life and alcohol there is light at the end of the tunnel here.







Wandering along Al Rainbow Street we came across this Arabic fast food place making Falafels(fried chickpea balls). They are good but not really my favourite.



I guess this is the best place to go in the evening if one has to experience the local Amman, Jordan night life otherwise popular venues with similar or much better offerings would be the modern international hotels but it won’t be quite near to going local.



We had dinner in Old Times Restaurant and then people watched for the rest of the evening really. When we had our fill of the Tahini Kufta and had coffee, we took a cab back to the hotel and pretty much tucked ourselves in early to get ready for our next adventure day in Amman.



More of our Amman diaries next...


Real world weight comparisons?

I wanted to make an actual comparison of gear weights and see what the real world differences are on a team with very similar gear set ups and how small choices might or might not effect us.



We are suited up for a long one day of climb that is realistically rated a Grade V but generally done in a day. Although with perfect conditions I have donethe climb in 5 hrs while roped to a partner. Iin early January's short days, in fairly cold conditions it easily lives up to the overall Grade V label.



The brothers Grimmmasquerading as "Team Arcteryx LT" for this discussion.... ;-)







This is the list of weights I keep on the blog:



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//04/weights.html





What we used that was the same with slight weight differences noted below



Spantiks

Vertical front pointcrampons

Atom Lt Hoody

Arcteryx pants

Hoody pile pull over shirts

under shirt

long johns

CCW packs

EB down jackets



What we used that was different:



inner boot 5 oz / 9 oz.

harnesses 10 oz / 12.2 oz.

carabiners 10 @ 10 oz / 10 @ 25 oz

crampons 39 oz / 45 oz

packs 25oz / 38 oz

helmet 8oz / 16oz

water bottles/water 34 oz/ 68 oz

hooded/unhooded down 13.8 oz/ 13.2 oz

gloves 7oz gauntlet/ 6.5 oz x 2 with short cuff (13 oz)

pants 19 oz / 17 oz

long johns 6 oz / 6 ox x 2 (13 oz)

________ _______



177 oz verses 265.8 oz = 88.8 oz or a............ 5.5 lbs difference.



What does 5.5# mean to you?



Most of that weight difference is in the actual packs weight we used (same Cold Cold Worldbasic designs, different material, one stripped, one not) and the decision on the amount ofextra water carried. The helmets stand out as well. Interesting withthat the same manufactures helmets, that theheavier hard shell helmet broke when hit by a dinner plate and the lighter, foam coreone did not with a similar hit.We were out 10 hrs total and both of us brought water back to the car.



Low temps were -30C or -22 F at the beginning and end of the climb.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Our view right now, in Mactan Island

So we are staying now here in Mactan Island to escape from the chaotic civilization of Cebu. It’s time for the real holiday: a holiday at the beach



The view from our hotel room when we woke up this morning and the morning after next and next and next...



Relaxing view from our breakfast table at BE Resorts, Punta Engano, Mactan Island (Cebu, Philippines).



Although Mactan Island is far from being the paradise island for beach lovers, it is the nearest place with holiday resorts that offer sun, beach, island boat hopping, snorkeling and diving from Cebu City. A few facts here: Mactan Island is actually a coral island and in the beginning there are hardly any white sands here, moreover beaches. What most resorts did was to reclaim the beach by hauling white sand from other parts of the region to the island. So whenever you are in Mactan Island, sitting on the beach and digging your toes under its white sands... do not be fooled. Remember, it is ‘artificial beach’ =)



The island however is rich in history. Year 1521: It was here that the Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan, commissioned by the King of Spain was killed during a battle on the Mactan shores by Lapu-Lapu, one of the local chieftains in the island.



Outrigger boats moored halfway from the shore, the first foto is the view from our room.



The view from the outdoor terrace to the pool and beach while having breakfast this morning.







They serve freshly made right-on-the-spot cepes, pancakes and eggs every morning during breakfast and moi after having a nice one.



The view from the outdoor terrace to the pools and the small beach.



Ready to hit the beach here. Will probably do nothing, maybe read a magazine, stare at the (fake) beach, stare at the sky, stare at the Dutchman who is red as a tomato and stare at the other girl as well - they seem to be the only ones baking themselves under the sun. The rest of the Asian tourists are hiding, afraid from the sun, haha.



I like that they have a small outdoor pool by the beach and by the bar, most especially I like the modern and minimalist design and colours, very soothing to the eyes. Great for de-stressing.



You can charter an outrigger as well to visit the neighbouring islands.





Pictures of moi of course.



Ah, lovely weather here at the beach. Finally. For now, enjoy with me my margarita...